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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, chopped into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into 2cm cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml neutral oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then crush or grind to a coarse mixture.

Place in a sizable container with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, sprinkled with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.